History of Pizza

In the beginning, there was a flat, round bread base with tomato sauce spread on top. In the beginning, all was good. Now, between anchovies, pineapple, barbecue sauce, potatoes, and cream cheese, pizza has taken on so many incarnations and styles that, at least in Italy, there is a concerted effort to preserve the “original” pizza. Before we preserve it though—what is it?

Deciding how to define pizza makes it hard to decide when exactly pizza began. History records soldiers in Darius the Great’s army spreading cheese and dates on top of flatbread as early as the sixth century BC; in fact, the Mediterranean area seems to have been the location that spawned most varieties of flatbread.

Pizza as pizza really did not begin to emerge until the 18th century with the advent of tomato as a topping (ironic, since many modern pizzas tout barbecue or alfredo as their signature sauces). Tomato on top of yeast-based flatbread became part of the common fare for common folk; as tourism to Naples increased, tourists started to poke around the poorer sections of town, keen on trying this traditionally Neapolitan fare.

In 1830, the Antica Pizzeria Port’ Alba opened its doors as a sit-down restaurant, though it had been making pizzas for nearly a century. This long tradition of pizza has given rise to pizza purists, including the famous Da Michele pizzeria. At this pizzeria, they serve only two types: the Marinara and the Margherita. The Marinara is topped with tomato, oregano, garlic, extra virgin olive oil, and basil. This pizza is not named for seafood but for seafarers; it is generally accepted that fishermen returning from the Bay of Naples would stop for these pizzas by way of dinner. In 1889, Queen Margherita of Savoy was served a pizza meant to represent the Italian flag with the green of basil leaves, white of mozzarella, and the red of tomatoes. Baker Raffaele Esposito created this and named it in her honor. As the pizza Margherita spread in popularity, pizza purists adopted the Marinara and the Margherita as the only permissible pizza permutations.

If that’s the origin . . . what is the legislation? As with other countries attempting to preserve various facets of their national identities, Italy is targeting whatever makes Italy Italian and trying to keep it that way. Within their national Parliament, pizza proponents have proposed a bill safeguarding the “traditional Italian pizza.” This bill delineates ingredients and processes for producing any pizza within Italy that would be allowed to carry the label of a “traditional Italian pizza.” As part of the bill, no frozen pizzas could carry that label. Additionally, the European Union has a protected designation of origin system in place to which Italian interests are trying to add the Marinara and Margherita pizzas.

So that’s the legislation. As for the destiny . . . well, to you, what matters most is that you get your pizza. Classy Italian tradition might be nice in Naples, but in your front room, you want something that goes with your movie. Bread. Sauce. Toppings. Let there be pizza—and let there be rejoicing.

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